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Phil's Rambling Rants
March 3rd, 2007
07:19 pm

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From:whl
Date:March 4th, 2007 03:30 am (UTC)
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I've noticed the at least seeming difference in brightness, and when I replaced a 60 watt bulb recently, I used a 22 watt CF, normally intended to replace 75 watt bulbs.

I've been checking to see if the amount of heat this generates exceeds the 60 watt limit on the fixture it is in; I suspect it won't.

One other issue is if you are using X10 to control your lights. What I hear is that enough power is "leaked" through the lamp modules (to detect the manual switching of the lamp) to make the lights glow all the time. Thus I've only been putting them in fixtures that are controlled by the relay based appliance modules.

Older issues, which might be solved in modern CFs: some were not to be used upside down, and others were not to be used outdoors.
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From:tigertoy
Date:March 4th, 2007 04:25 am (UTC)
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I find the 22 watt ones nice and bright, but where the 13 watt ones just barely fit in most of my fixtures the 22 watt ones just plain don't. I need to get half a dozen bigger fixture covers.
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From:msminlr
Date:March 4th, 2007 12:15 pm (UTC)
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Are these the totally-enclosed type that fit into a collar with three screws to hold it in?
Lowe's and their major competitors all have fairly wide selections of replacements for these.
Just take the old one along to make sure the new one has the same neck size.
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From:tigertoy
Date:March 4th, 2007 12:36 pm (UTC)
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They are the bowl that screws into a neck type, and I think they're standard size. As you say, I need to bring along one of the old ones. Champaign has a specialty lighting store, but I expect prices would be high there; I'll have to see what Lowe's has.
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From:beige_alert
Date:March 4th, 2007 04:27 am (UTC)
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The "60 watt limit" is about the heat output, not the light output. A 22 watt bulb can't exceed the heat output of a 60 watt incandescent bulb!

X10 is an issue. Of course you can only use the relay-based units, not the triac dimmers. Usually the local-control current will cause weird glowing or attempts to start, so you have to hack the module to disable the local control. Instructions on which lead to cut can be found on the internet.

Usually the claimed light output figures are a bit optimistic. There is also always some warm-up period, though some of mine start an near full output, and others start *very* dim before they warm up. CFs vary widely in their characteristic, and unfortunately it seems like you can't buy the some kind twice, since brand names and model names and availability change constantly, which also makes it hard for anyone to offer useful reviews, since you probably won't be able to find whatever they recommend, or it will be under a different name, or the name they give will now be something totally different.

CFs have been out for a long time now, and it's been irrational to use anything else for any light that gets significant use for many years, so in my mind the wonder is not that they are slightly bigger than the obsolete incandescents but that light fixture manufacturers *still* have not figured out the size of a normal light bulb, which is a bit bigger these days than it was when I was born.
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From:whl
Date:March 4th, 2007 05:24 am (UTC)
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Yeah, I realize it's about the heat, having seen a nicely browned warning label once.

The 22 watt CF does only barely clear the shade support "harp" in this particular lamp.

The information about how to find which trace to cut will come in handy, eventually, although for the moment I don't want to modify the hardware. Fortunately, I have 3 relay units.
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