Small progress - Phil's Rambling Rants — LiveJournal
The "60 watt limit" is about the heat output, not the light output. A 22 watt bulb can't exceed the heat output of a 60 watt incandescent bulb!
X10 is an issue. Of course you can only use the relay-based units, not the triac dimmers. Usually the local-control current will cause weird glowing or attempts to start, so you have to hack the module to disable the local control. Instructions on which lead to cut can be found on the internet.
Usually the claimed light output figures are a bit optimistic. There is also always some warm-up period, though some of mine start an near full output, and others start *very* dim before they warm up. CFs vary widely in their characteristic, and unfortunately it seems like you can't buy the some kind twice, since brand names and model names and availability change constantly, which also makes it hard for anyone to offer useful reviews, since you probably won't be able to find whatever they recommend, or it will be under a different name, or the name they give will now be something totally different.
CFs have been out for a long time now, and it's been irrational to use anything else for any light that gets significant use for many years, so in my mind the wonder is not that they are slightly bigger than the obsolete incandescents but that light fixture manufacturers *still* have not figured out the size of a normal light bulb, which is a bit bigger these days than it was when I was born.
|Date:||March 4th, 2007 05:24 am (UTC)|| |
Yeah, I realize it's about the heat, having seen a nicely browned warning label once.
The 22 watt CF does only barely clear the shade support "harp" in this particular lamp.
The information about how to find which trace to cut will come in handy, eventually, although for the moment I don't want to modify the hardware. Fortunately, I have 3 relay units.